The T-shirt is one of those garments that feels as though it has always existed. Simple, familiar and almost anonymous, it has become one of the most universal pieces of clothing in the world. But the T-shirt has a surprisingly rich history.

Its origins can be traced back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when knitted cotton undershirts began to be worn as practical layers beneath shirts and workwear. They were valued for being comfortable, washable and relatively inexpensive. Early versions were very much considered underwear — something that was not intended to be seen.

The idea of a simple knitted shirt, however, was not entirely new. European workers and sailors had long worn knitted garments close to the body because they provided warmth, comfort and freedom of movement. What changed towards the end of the 19th century was the development of industrial knitting and mass production. Cotton could be produced and knitted more efficiently, making simple undershirts available to a much wider audience.

The T-shirt was particularly well suited to working life. Unlike a traditional woven shirt, it had no collar, cuffs or buttons to get in the way. It was easy to pull on, easy to move in and, importantly, easy to wash. Cotton also absorbed perspiration and could be washed repeatedly, making it particularly useful in hot climates and for physically demanding work.

The garment became increasingly associated with sailors, labourers and soldiers. The United States Navy began issuing short-sleeved white cotton undershirts to sailors in the early 20th century, helping establish the basic form that we would recognise today. For military personnel, the T-shirt was practical and economical. It could be worn beneath a uniform or, in hot conditions, on its own.

US Navy Sailors wearing white T-shirts on deck, WW11

That practicality was perhaps the most important reason for its eventual success.

The T-shirt did not need to be explained. It was comfortable, inexpensive, durable and easy to care for. It could be worn by almost anyone and adapted to almost any situation. It was equally at home under a work jacket, with a pair of trousers or simply on its own.

That began to change during the first half of the 20th century. The T-shirt slowly moved beyond its role as an undergarment and became something that could be worn publicly. Its association with the military and physical work gave it a sense of practicality and toughness, while its simplicity made it accessible to a growing mass market.

After the Second World War, the T-shirt started to escape its role as an undergarment completely. Hollywood helped enormously. Actors such as Marlon Brando and James Dean wore plain T-shirts as part of a new kind of masculine uniform — informal, rebellious and distinctly American. What had once been something worn underneath a shirt had become something that could be worn on its own.

T-shirts at a diner, 1950s

This was an important change. The T-shirt was no longer simply functional; it began to carry meaning.

As the decades passed, its popularity grew because it could become almost anything its wearer wanted it to be. It could represent a band, a sports team, a political idea, a company, a place or simply a personal style. The blank surface of the T-shirt became a canvas for graphics, slogans, artwork and identity.

From the 1960s onwards, music, sport, advertising, politics, art and youth culture all found a place on it. The T-shirt became a way of communicating without saying anything at all. It could be rebellious or conservative, practical or fashionable, anonymous or highly personal.

Its appeal also came from its ability to cross social and cultural boundaries. Unlike many garments associated with particular professions, classes or occasions, the T-shirt could be worn by almost anyone. It could be worn by a factory worker, a student, a musician or a film star. It belonged equally to everyday life and popular culture.

The T-shirt also benefited from the enormous growth of casual clothing during the second half of the 20th century. As workplaces became less formal and leisure became an increasingly important part of everyday life, clothing became more relaxed. The T-shirt fitted perfectly into this changing world. It was informal without being complicated, and practical without looking purely utilitarian.

There is something particularly satisfying about a garment that has survived so many changes in fashion without fundamentally changing itself. The T-shirt has become popular not because it is complicated, but because it solves a very simple problem exceptionally well.

It is comfortable. It is practical. It is easy to wear. It is easy to wash. And perhaps most importantly, it leaves room for the wearer to make it their own.

Yet underneath all of the cultural associations, slogans, graphics and fashion trends, the fundamental appeal of the T-shirt has never really changed.

It is a simple piece of clothing made well.

In many ways, that is why it has endured. Fashion constantly changes, but the need for useful, comfortable clothing does not. The T-shirt has managed to sit somewhere between function and culture, workwear and leisurewear, anonymity and self-expression.

More than a century after its origins as a humble undergarment, it remains one of the most recognisable and widely worn garments in the world.

Nothing unnecessary.

Just a really good T-shirt.