From Military Equipment to Everyday Outerwear

Few garments have travelled quite as far from their original purpose as the gilet. Today, the sleeveless jacket is as likely to be worn over a shirt in the city as it is over a fleece in the countryside. Quilted, knitted, padded or made from technical fabrics, its appeal remains consistent: warmth and protection around the torso while leaving the arms unrestricted.

That simple combination has deep roots in military clothing. The sleeveless form was not originally developed as a fashion statement, but as a practical solution to a straightforward problem: protecting or insulating the body without restricting movement. Soldiers carrying weapons, operating equipment, climbing in and out of vehicles or moving through difficult terrain needed protection while keeping their arms free.

Protection Without Restriction

The development of modern military body armour is an important part of this story. During and after the Second World War, military researchers looked for alternatives to traditional metal armour that could protect against fragments while reducing weight and improving mobility.

The U.S. Army Quartermaster Corps developed laminated nylon body armour after the Second World War. Nylon provided fragmentation protection while being lighter and more flexible than traditional armour. The technology was developed further during the Korean War before evolving into the protective vests used by American forces in Vietnam.

These garments were equipment rather than conventional clothing, designed to protect against fragments from artillery, mortars, grenades and explosions. Their construction was dictated by function: protect the torso while leaving the arms free.

This principle can be seen throughout military-inspired clothing. Pockets were positioned to carry equipment, closures were designed for security, and materials were selected for strength, weight or protection. The garment existed because it had a job to do.

Vietnam

The Vietnam War brought these requirements into sharp focus. American soldiers operated in a hot, humid environment while carrying considerable amounts of equipment, ammunition, water and weapons. Protective clothing added further weight and heat.

The M1952 and later M69 fragmentation vests were substantial pieces of equipment, constructed from layers of ballistic nylon and designed primarily to protect against fragments rather than bullets. An example of an M1952 vest weighs approximately 8.5 pounds, a significant addition to an already heavy combat load.

M69 Fragmentation Vest "Flak Jacket" Vietnam War

Heat presented another problem. Researchers studied ways to improve ventilation and reduce the physical burden created by protective equipment. The challenge was a constant compromise between protection, weight, heat and freedom of movement.

This tension remains central to military clothing design: achieving the necessary protection while making the most efficient use of materials, weight and construction.

M60 Gunner "The Pig" Vietnam War

From Protection to Insulation

The history of the gilet is not entirely a history of body armour. The sleeveless form gradually found other military applications, particularly as an insulating layer.

The same principle could be applied using lighter materials. Quilted and padded sleeveless garments could provide warmth without the bulk of another full jacket, making them useful beneath larger outer layers.

The materials changed, but the principle remained simple: keep the torso protected from the environment while allowing the arms to move freely.

That idea translated naturally into outdoor, agricultural and industrial clothing. A gilet could provide additional warmth while allowing someone working with their hands to move without restriction.

The garment became associated with work because it worked.

Military Clothing as Equipment

Military clothing has always influenced civilian clothing because military equipment is designed around constraints. A soldier can carry only a certain amount of weight. Equipment must be accessible, clothing must function while running, climbing, sitting and carrying, and closures and pockets need to work in demanding conditions.

These restrictions produce interesting garments because appearance becomes a consequence of function.

The gilet is a good example. Its distinctive silhouette comes directly from removing the sleeves. Its proportions are dictated by the need to cover the torso while leaving the shoulders unrestricted, while pockets and closures often reflect the equipment it was designed to carry.

Only later does the design become recognisable as a style in its own right.

Ready for the "R & R"

From the Battlefield to the City

The Vietnam-era military environment was obviously very different from that of the modern wearer. Yet some of the underlying requirements remain familiar. We still want warmth without restricted movement. We still value useful pockets and garments that can be layered and adapted to changing conditions.

The circumstances have changed. The design logic has not.

This is perhaps the most interesting aspect of military influence on contemporary clothing. The original purpose can disappear while the solution remains useful.

The enduring appeal of military clothing is not necessarily about reproducing a uniform. It is about understanding why a garment looks the way it does. A pocket, collar, closure, fabric or sleeveless construction becomes more interesting when its original purpose is understood.

The best military garments are essentially pieces of equipment that happen to be worn. They begin with a problem rather than a trend.

The Gilet Today

The modern gilet has largely become detached from its military origins. It is now worn by farmers, cyclists, walkers, workers and city dwellers. It can be made from wool, cotton, nylon or synthetic insulation, and can be rugged, technical or refined.

But underneath those variations, the basic idea remains remarkably consistent: a layer for the torso, freedom for the arms, protection from the elements and useful without being complicated.

Like many of the most successful garments in clothing history, its lasting appeal comes from the fact that its design was originally dictated by use rather than fashion.

Stealth Zip Gilet

The battlefield has changed. The materials have changed. The environments have changed.

But the principle remains:

Protect the body. Keep the arms free. Make the garment useful.